«PowerPak Installation Instructions Now that you have your new heads, ported intakes, and cam, you’re ready to get it installed and running. Perhaps ...»
PowerPak Installation Instructions
Now that you have your new heads, ported intakes, and cam, you’re ready to get it installed and running. Perhaps you’ve decided to do it yourself rather than hiring it out. If you intend to do this yourself, first make sure
you have a few extra hands lined up to help. It’s a big job, but its not really difficult. Plan on 24 or more hours
to get it done, working methodically the entire time.
Some preliminaries first.
Here’s what you‘ll need:
Head gaskets, Fel-Pro 9642PT-1, order (2). This is actually the 3.8L SuperCoupe head gasket, perforated steel core with graphite facings and preflattened steel ring in the fire ring.
Intake gasket set, Fel-Pro MS94045, includes (2) lower-to-head gaskets, (2) cork end seals, the upper-to-lower gasket, a small tube of black sealant.
Thermostat and thermostat gasket Timing cover gasket set, includes water pump, housing, timing cover, oil pump, front main seal Head bolts, Fel-Pro ES72156, order (2) sets Header gaskets, Ford, order 2 Assembly lube, ARP 100-9903, or equivalent Thread sealer, ARP 100-9904, or equivalent Black sealant, Permatex UltraBlack hi-temp gasket maker Anti-seize, VersaChem type 13 or equivalent, Red Locktite Standard and metric sockets and deep wells including 3/8” and 1/2 drive, universals Standard and metric open/box ends Common head screwdrivers of various sizes Torx bit set Snap-lok set Rubber handled hammer or rubber mallet Pry bar Duct tape Magnetic retriever Pliers, water pump pliers, needle nose pliers Dampener puller/installer Cheater bars of various sizes Penetrating oil Torque wrench 5 quarts of 10W30 oil Oil filter 2 gallons antifreeze/coolant Spark plugs Power steering fluid A healthy supply of rags Funnel, buckets, empty milk jugs, etc PlastiKote hi-temp engine enamel if you’re doing any painting If your engine has high miles, you’d be advised to purchase a new timing chain, hydraulic roller lifters, and pushrods.
Now, these instructions are not a step-by-step, its just too much work to attempt to cover in that much detail, you must pickup a Haynes or Ford service manual for that purpose. Before the first wrench is turned you must read the manual and be thoroughly prepared.
OK, you’ve been through the manual and its time to start.
Looking at your engine now, you have a better perspective of the work involved. So lets get started.
First, disconnect the battery before doing anything else.
Have some zip-lok bags or boxes ready to label and segregate the various nuts, bolts, studs, etc. This is important because you can not remember where they all go.
Make some sketches to identify the location of the various bolts as your remove them. This will dramatically improve your reassembly. Also note that penetrating oil is your friend, squirt all the bolts that you’ll be removing with this stuff giving it a few minutes to penetrate.
Drain the coolant at the coolant petcock. Disconnect the cooling fan and remove it. Loosen the water pump pulley bolts but do not remove them. Loosen the crank pulley bolts. Now, you can loosen and remove the big dampener bolt. A couple of pointers here. On rotating objects such as the pulleys, use two sockets, opposed 180 degrees apart to simultaneously hold the pulley and loosen the bolts. On the dampener you’ll need to wedge something between the dampener and block or between the dampener and floor as leverage to prevent its rotation during removal. We also left the belt on the engine to aid in loosening the water pump and crank pulley bolts, but now you can use your ratchet to pull up the tensioner and remove the belt. Now, remove the water pump pulley and use your dampener puller to remove the dampener.
Now, disconnect the MAF, air temp sensor, and remove the entire inlet system from the filter to the throttle body. Cover the throttle body opening or stuff it with rags. Now, climb into the open space in front of the engine. Disconnect alternator and remove it. Remove the power steering pump while still installed in the big bracket. You do not have to remove the pulley, but you’ll need a universal to get one or two of the bolts off. Lift the assembly up, disconnect the two hydraulic lines and be prepared with a catch bucket. You are marking and identifying where the bolts go, right? Go to the other side and disconnect the coil pak and remove it all the way to the wires at the plugs. Make sure that the plug wires are numbered or some way identified. Disconnect the air conditioner compressor. Remove it from the bracket and hang it from something. Alternatively, you can have it evacuated and totally remove it to make more room to work. Did you know that we have an air conditioning eliminator kit that bolts right on to the 3.8?While your at it, it eliminates the weight of the A/C compressor and hoses and frees up some horsepower too! If you elect to totally remove the air conditioning system, have it evacuated then use your snap-lok tools to disconnect the lines. Remove the air conditioning bracket. You can now disconnect the cam position sensor, crank trigger, and oil pressure sender but do not remove them. Starting to look a little better now. And your confidence is up right?
Speaking of snap-loks, they are the connectors used to hold together pressurized lines like fuel, A/C refrigerant etc. It takes special tools to disconnect the connectors. Look at the picture, it shows how to use the tool. Slide it into the connector as shown, push the tool into the connector to release the internal spring and pull on the hose. If the proper tool is used it will pull apart.
Lets work on the top now. We have to get the upper intake off. Its held on by 6 bolts and the big EGR nut. Soak that EGR nut with penetrating oil. Use a healthy adjustable to break it loose and back it out.
Now, loosen the bolts and prepare to remove the upper intake, but first, take a good look at all the vacuum routing and make detailed drawings and notes as to where they all go.
You’ll be sorry later on if you don’t. OK, disconnect these vacuum and EGR lines, and disconnect the throttle position sensor, idle air control, throttle and cruise control cables, and EGR, and carefully lift the upper off.
You’ll notice that the PCV line is attached to the bottom of the lower. Just pull the PCV valve out of the valve cover and take it and the tube out with the upper. Immediately stuff rags down into the ports in the lower or duct tape them closed.
Now, lets remove the headers, squirt the bolts/studs and get busy, don‘t forget the collector nuts, upper HEGO‘s and the lower EGR nut.
Just loosen the lower EGR tube nut and let the EGR tube and the smog stuff come out with the header. Note the location of bolts vs studs with respect to installation of the oil dipstick tube on the driver’s side and the coolant bypass tube on the passenger’s side. Before proceeding, take a good look at the relationship between the wiring harness, the coolant bypass tubes, fuel rail etc. Again, this is a place where good notes and detailed sketches will save much time later. For the most part the connectors are different, but the injector connectors are not, label them if you need to. OK, now lets get those coolant bypass tubes off.
Note: No Smoking. Now, use your snap-loks and disconnect the fuel lines. Some fuel will spill, so get some rags and mop it up. We’ll leave the injectors connected to the fuel rails, so just remove the fuel rail bolts, wiggle the injector connectors loose, and pull up on the rails. Keep the injectors out of any dirt. Now, disconnect the coolant temperature and air charge sensors and lay the fuel line up onto the cowl apron.
Another word of caution, you must keep the engine covered to prevent any foreign objects such as tools, nuts, etc from falling down into the engine, otherwise, it gets ugly real fast.
Next, remove the valve covers and note the location of bolts vs studs. Now, remove the upper intake manifold, its just a bunch of small bolts and studs, note where they go. Gently lift or pry the lower intake manifold off. Use rags to cover the open valley. Now, lets remove the valve covers and rocker arms. Label the position of each rocker arm so they go back exactly where they came. Remove the pushrods and also label them by cylinder and valve. Now the heads, but first plug up or tape the exhaust pipes closed. 8 bolts per head. They are mondo tight. Use a 1/2 inch breaker bar with a cheater and a hard quick push to break them loose. Remove all 8 and lift the head up. Expect a deluge of coolant that will run down the outside of the block. Some will run into the bores and the fastener holes. Get that out of there and oil the bores with WD-40.
Now, onto the timing cover. Before we remove the timing cover, we must get the cam position sensor out, but it must be removed properly, if not, you’ll need the Ford cam position sensor alignment tool. To remove the sensor, use that crank bolt to turn the engine in the clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is top dead center on the compression stroke. What is top dead center? TDC is the point of maximum com- Cam position sensor mark pression, that is when the piston is at the very top of the stroke on the compression stroke. How do you know where that is? Watch the piston and the lifters. When the piston on the #1 cylinder is at the very top, you know if it’s the compression stroke because both lifters will be resting on the base circle of the cam lobes, i.e., all the way down in their lifter bores. With #1 at TDC, unbolt the cam position sensor hold down. Make a mark on the sensor where its attached to the block, and make a matching mark on the block using a permanent marker. Slide the sensor straight out. Do not turn it, make another set of alignment marks on it and the drive shaft, and tape it down with duct tape so it can’t rotate. Make sure you do this right and you won’t have any timing problems during reassembly. You can remove the water and oil pumps if you intend to replace them. If you plan to reuse them, they can stay attached to the timing cover to simplify the job. Look at the bolts, its easy to tell which attach the timing cover to the block and which attach the water pump and oil pump to the timing cover. OK, lets remove the bolts which attach the timing cover. Contrary to popular opinion, there is no hidden bolt that requires removal of the oil pan, but there is a small socket cap screw down under the oil pump that must come out. Now that is done, but here’s where it gets, well lets say, trying. Trying because you must try to get it (the timing cover) off without breaking it. It has a couple pry tabs at the top, so get a screwdriver behind there and gently pry loose. Don’t worry, it seems fruitless but keep at it, but do not pry on any of the gasket surfaces or they can be damaged. When you give up prying, take your hammer’s rubber handle or rubber mallet and start tapping on it. Keep at it till it comes loose, it just takes some time. Carefully remove it and set aside. You’ll also want to remove the studs from the block because you can get a better seal at the oil pan when its reinstalled if the studs are removed. To remove the studs, just use two jam nuts and back them out. Again, make drawings as to where they go. Now, lets look at the timing marks on the crank and cam sprockets. These two marks should be pointing directly at each other, if not, you were not at TDC. Don’t worry, your cam position sensor marks are still valid, just make sure that during reassembly that you maintain this same pointer relationship when the cam position sensor is reinstalled, get it, its just a matter of maintaining the relationship between the cam position sensor’s position and the location of #1 piston when the sensor was removed. All you have to do is go back to those positions during reassembly.
Install the dampener bolt back into the crank. Now that the timing cover is off, lets see how this thing works.
Turn the crank clockwise as if you are tightening the dampener bolt. You can look into the valley and watch the cam rotate. At the same time, look at the lifters as they rise in fall. You should see the cam lobe come around, then the base circle, it will be important later on to be able to recognize the base circle position as the lobes pass by. Bring everything back to #1 TDC with the timing marks perfectly aligned (pointing directly at each other).
OK, now lets get the cam out. Remove the lifter hold-downs and the lifters, make sure to identify the lifters so that the lifters, pushrods, and rocker arms all go back in the same place. To remove the cam, we have to remove the timing chain, and to do that remove the cam gear bolt, the gear, and the big spacer. Now, slide both the crank pulley and cam gear slowly forward, they come right off. You don’t have to remove the timing chain tensioner. Look at the manual, it gives a very helpful hint regarding cocking the tensioner spring. Or, you can just cock the spring manually during reassembly, unless its kind of bound up, then you’ll have to remove it to cock it. With the timing chain off, remove the cam retainer, it uses a Torx bit. We can remove the cam now.
Pull it straight out, gently, being careful not to nick the bearing races. It will come straight out. The radiator is far enough away to allow you to lift the cam straight up and out.
Now its time for one of the most demanding jobs, the preparation of the gasket surfaces. Before anything goes back together, we have to get the gasket surfaces perfectly clean. To do this use a scraper for the tough stuff, but be very careful not the nick or gouge the gasket surfaces or you might have a leak there. Once the tough stuff is off, use a surface conditioning disc on a drill motor to get a nice non-directional finish on the gasket surfaces. Do not grind away on the surfaces, just use the conditioning disc to clean it up good. You can also decarbon the piston crowns with the surface conditioning disc at this time. Now, wipe the gasket surfaces with acetone as the final preparation step.
Before we start reassembly we need to transfer some stuff from the old parts to your new stuff. It’s a few things on the upper intake, like the throttle body, EGR vacuum valve, PCV line with PCV valve attached.
Some stuff on the lower like the coolant bypass fittings and the sensors.